As Airbus has with SMEs in the Toulouse region

While exists in Italy mutual assistance more widespread between the brands of luxury and the workshops which they depend for their production, this is not the case in France. The crisis has highlighted on the one hand the difficulties of the small contractors who make collections for large houses, such as Chanel and Vuitton (Group LVMH, owner of the "voices"), or those of workshops for jewellery, sub-contractors of the prestigious place Vendôme-marks. And on the other, the absence of a chain of luxury, aeronautics, metallurgy or chemistry, which would cushion the blow. Chanel and Hermes had to redeem these past years some plumassiers or silky to avoid their disappearance. But the approach has its limits. A peak for the country leader with 34 of market share before Italy (20) and the United States (14). Especially when the profession is shaken by the global recession.

The sector, which will textiles for footwear, passing by the decoration has nor place of reflection on the strategies to be implemented in the long term to defend its potential. But it remains one of the first contributors to the French trade balance, with over $ 20 billion of sales abroad. "There is one side of the major groups were riveted on the profitability and the course of scholarship, and other small isolated companies and designers have trouble ends." "Between the two, nothing", argues Jacques Carles, the President of the circle of the luxury and the creation.

Search unifier

Even the authorities are struggling to make sense. Because an interlocutor for the sector, Christian Estrosi, the Minister of industry, which prepares a plan of stimulus for fashion, had major donors of order and their small hands together to find solutions to the decline in orders. The head of 70 prestigious houses, the Colbert Committee is confined in the defence of the French luxury international image. "The problem of the converters or jewellery shops within their federations, justifies its General Secretary, Elisabeth Ponsolle of doors. Do not forget that, since 20 years, our homes work to maintain their expertise in France. "Between 2002 and 2007, they opened 22 industrial sites in France," added.

At the time, the Centre of the luxury and the creation is willing to play the unifying role. Launched eight years ago by Jacques Carles, the head of a strategy consulting firm, it is defined as the "think tank" of the luxury trades. He is the Organization of "Talks" with professionals, and the price of the Talents of the given luxury each year to 12 figures. "This is the Piper," unidentified critics, sign that it is still very difficult to place in the Seraglio...

Ten proposals

"We knew that this would take time," resumes Jacques Carle, with building credibility with the publication of a report with ten proposals for "reinventing the luxury and its economy" (see opposite). His idea, to make out the large groups, LVMH or PPR at the top of their fortress to better maintain the pool of companies that form the bedrock of their development. As Airbus has with SMEs in the Toulouse region. "These know-how in textile, jewellery or other are the basis of luxury." "If tomorrow this substrate disappears, brands win over nothing," said Julie El Ghouzzi, Director of the organization.

Promote the emergence of new French brands made by young designers is one of the priorities of the reflection, while the world luxury market continues to grow, taken by enrichment of emerging countries. The establishment of a strong industry, trade and lobbying Governments is essential at a time where large international groups continental sector. Thus, an Arab Sheikh interested to maison Lacroix, and the Indian Mittal has just redeem Escada. Eventually, the circle of luxury wishes to constitute an economic observatory. In Italy, fashion and textiles should finish the year with 26,000 jobs, according to the Sistema Moda Italia association. And France No one is able to say.