Three decades later the French style is back

Desperately flat, the curve of the sales of watches in France (see page 38) imperfectly reflects the creative revival of French watchmakers. They manage to take their advantage of any game we thought permanently locked by the Swiss industry.

French watchmaking has its letters of nobility which historically refer Swiss craftsmen to a subordinate Act. The first - and the most beautiful - enamelled watches were created in France in the 16th century. The main Swiss Watchmakers homes were founded by French huguenots exiled to Switzerland by religious persecution. It is France that the golden age of watchmaking flourished in the 18th century, when Abraham - Louis Breguet, Switzerland of birth but French heart, held boutique in Paris. The Royal Versailles in watches Court provided that the world aristocracy then quickly order. The watchmaking industrial, capable of producing watches series, was invented in Franche-Comté, to 1777, by a Frédéric Japy which manufactures of movements powered Swiss subcontractors to the beginning of the 20th century.

French supremacy

Founded in 1847, the House of Cartier, "Kings of jewellers and jewellery of the Kings", comfortable French supremacy in the market of the precious watch. If it is likely that the wristwatch was invented in France, it is certain that automatic was designed in 1922 by the French House Leroy, heir of a long dynasty of watchmakers. It is expected the first half of the 20th century to see the Swiss production supplant watches French, the end will be sounded by the disappearance of Lip, in the 1970s, and the advent of the quartz.

Three decades later, the French style is back. First by the international success of its most famous luxury brands: Hermes launched its first watches in 1927 and founded his own factory (Switzerland) in 1978. Follow the signed watch collections Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton who chose the Swiss Made quality to express their creativity watch "à la française". Place Vendôme (Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Chaumet) remains the true Court of the great watchmakers, Jewellers. The recent surging watches fashion restored life to a little lost sight in the couture signatures (Ted Lapidus, Louis Féraud, Nina Ricci) before expanding the territory of marks as Rykiel, Celio or recordable.

Let's be fair: the label Swiss Made, synonymous with international watch "various", remains the most sought-after in the world. Note simply that it becomes irresistible with a French Touch that snapped up fans from around the world! That would be the contemporary Swiss watch without the French, without those who work in the Swiss factories Operator to the manager, there are the thousands and they represent more than a third of the watchmaking jobs of the Confederation. Then, those who renew the most amazing concepts. The best-known include Richard Mille, Vianney Halter, François-Paul Journe or same Philippe Starck for Fossil.

The true chic is sober

With this new wind in their sails, pure watchmaking houses resume in hope. Alain Silberstein defies modes in ahead by inventiveness never made default. Guy Ellia creates the trends by proving that true chic is sober - but at the price of what technical difficulties! Péquignet, long only to keep the torch of the luxury watchmaking in France", to discover a new international vocation in Asia and Australia. Bell & Ross confirms its creative difference in watchmaking design. Fontenay is the first French reference for women's watches. Louis Pion, "watchmaker of mode" now available in the France, to sell eddies to EUR 3 000.

New challengers appear: Honoré repositions in luxury, Aquanautic in sport trend, Opex in chic feminine and Beuchat in boating shock. Recurrence of some signatures: Poiray should soon to relaunch as Japy. Yema is reborn from the ashes and scrambles already on Asian markets; Navitec says in the aviation shows and Weal's attempts to breakthrough on custom watches on measurement. The breakthrough is international, all priced in all "niches"...

Supreme dedication of his new vocation: the France will soon have its own movement clockmaker, developed by the MRO factory, one of the marks noticed - and most remarkable - in recent years. A first since nearly half a century. With this good news of last minute, the achievement of a "Vortex" HABs 100 original French Technotime team, based in Valdahon (Doubs).